Canadian Rockies: Deep Freeze

It's been 5 years since the last time I went to Canada in the winter to climb. A few months before, after securing a week off during February, I'd actually waffled a bit on where to go. Then I remembered the best days I'd ever had ice climbing were in Canada. You could easily argue it's the best ice climbing in the world. Sitting on the plane to Calgary I couldn't believe how excited I was - it was like being a kid again. 

Perspective 

I truly love winter; the cold, the snow, the crisp air. I'm frightened of what the future might hold as the planet warms and I long for crunchy snow, ice, and the still air of a cold snap. That said I wasn't sure I was ready for a real Canadian polar vortex. Those of us well to the south in Colorado rarely face temps below 0 and the forecast was for below 0 temps the entire week. Kelly, my fiancé, wasn't too excited to hear how cold it was going to be but she didn't make me change our flights to Mexico (hence the fiancé part). She grew up near the Canadian border in Maine so she knew what to expect.

After a long weather delay in Denver, we made it to Calgary and then Canmore. The cold was brutal - skin exposed for a few seconds needed to be covered and there was no sitting around without your biggest jacket on. For maybe one or two seconds stepping out of a warm building or car you could fool yourself into thinking it wasn't that bad. But it was. It was that bad. 5 seconds top and you couldn't deny it.

The first morning we were out early and had a beautiful drive as the sun rose over the enormous Canadian Rockies. Getting out of the car in -27 deg Celsius we strapped on skis and snowshoes and began a long 6 km walk down a closed highway. 

After a long walk we finally made it to the creek and began the approach to Whiteman Falls and Redman Soars (our climbing goals for the day). 

There were two climbers from Portland, OR in front of us and when we caught up to them at the base of Whiteman Falls one had fallen in the creek and soaked his boot. They stated that Whiteman falls was dripping water and the ice was cracking and settling in the cold. They were outta there. 

Whiteman Falls

Kelly and I agreed to tackle "Redman Soars" - it looked really cool and we didn't really feel like hanging out on dripping, settling ice. It was an amazing pitch of mixed climbing.

Redman Soars

Kelly climbing up to the base of Redman in as many puffy clothes as she can find

Nearing the Top

By the time we were finished Redman we had to head back. Whiteman had dried up and stopped making noises but we were out of time and had a long ways to go to get back to the car. 

We reached the car at dark and the temperature plummeted. According the forecast it would be the warmest day of our trip. 

The next day we decided to do a short day on our way up to Field, BC. We climbed the Tokkum Pillar, which was a beautiful piece of ice in a narrow box canyon - a natural Ouray Ice Park. It would have been a great lead but it was too cold to ask Kelly to belay me. 

Marble Canyon

Tokkum Pillar

Kelly topping out a little wet and covered in ice

Field, BC

The next day was the coldest of the trip so we jumped in the car and drove up the Icefields Parkway to the Weeping Wall, which would be in the sun. A stunning drive it was, watching the sun hit the peaks and the thermometer fall all the way to -37 degrees Celsius (at -40 Fahrenheit and Celsius equal each other). 

As soon as the sun came out we walked to the base, and it was spectacular. Ice crystals in the air, no wind, squeaky snow, dry light bottomless powder. It was harsh but so beautiful.

The ice was bulletproof and shards of it would spray with every swing of the tool, glinting and sparkling in the still arctic air. While leading the second pitch I transitioned to the shade for a few meters and was almost a popsicle by the time I came out. The ice above was steep and strenuous, the screws were hard to place, and my sunglasses started fogging due to the temperature changes. Blind, pumped, but calm and focused I listened to my tools strike the ice to determine when they were solid. I kept moving slowly, methodically, climbing by feel rather than sight. We'd both spent a few months training specifically for ice climbing and this was the moment it really paid off. It was an unforgettable experience.

Another climber shot some nice photos of us from the road

We still had a pitch to go but the sun was going down and we were going to be in the shade soon so we rappelled off and scurried to the warmth of the car.

Kelly

The drive home was just as spectacular

The infamous Polar Circus

It seemed fitting to wrap up the day checking out the ice sculptures at Lake Louise.

The next day we decided to climb something close to Field - Carlsberg Column.

At this point we'd learned some important techniques for climbing in the cold. Don't wear thick socks - they'll impede circulation, keep a pair of gloves you aren't wearing under your jacket at all times, keep food near your body so it doesn't freeze, remember to eat and drink, if you aren't moving your puffy jacket must be on at all times, don't think you can climb hard - climb well below your limit, climb close to road if possible, don't make mistakes. Most importantly, ice is very fragile in the cold, give all ice daggers and pillars a wide berth. It was very unforgiving but it was beautiful and every day we climbed we felt a sense of accomplishment. 

Our last day we decided to check out professor falls which had a long approach and plenty of pitches of easy ice to keep us moving all day.

So cold our eyelashes were freezing together

It was beautiful day climbing waterfalls and following the creek-bed.

 The Trophy Wall

A calf elk trying to nurse

Poutine!

We spent 10 hrs in the cold, completed the climb, and then gorged on poutine and other food before running up the Banff hot springs and finishing off a glorious week with a much needed soak.